Full Specimen Plate
Anthurium corrugatum
Corrugated Velvet Anthurium
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Anthurium corrugatum Price Guide & Auction Value
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Before You Buy
Species-specific things to check when evaluating a listing
- Inspect new growth carefully for thrips — check the undersides of unfurling leaves for tiny dark insects or silvery streaking, as velvet anthuriums are a primary target
- Roots should be firm and pale — mushy or dark roots indicate rot often caused by poor transit conditions
- Avoid plants with more than one yellowing leaf; minor leaf loss in transit is normal but multiple yellows suggest stress before shipping
- Request a photo of the most recently unfurled leaf to judge current health — a crispy or damaged newest leaf is a red flag
Anthurium corrugatum Morphology
About Anthurium corrugatum
Anthurium corrugatum is a compact, epiphytic Anthurium native to the humid wet tropical forests and cloud forests of Ecuador and northwestern South America. It forms a compact rosette from a basal crown and short stem, supported by a dense mass of roots. The leaves are heavily textured, strongly corrugated and bullate, with a thick, leathery feel. The leaf blades are elongated cordate with a narrow sinus and quilted venation. Growth is non-climbing and self-supporting.
Native Range
Ecuador
Propagation Guide
How to Propagate Anthurium corrugatum
Root in a closed high-humidity environment. Mature specimens may produce basal offshoots that can be carefully divided. Patience is essential — establishment is slow.
Care Guide
Anthurium corrugatum Care Guide & Growing Conditions
Very chunky, well-aerated mix: 40% orchid bark, 30% perlite, 20% sphagnum moss, 10% activated charcoal. Anthuriums suffocate in dense soil — roots need airflow.
Water when the substrate is nearly dry throughout. Less is more — overwatering is the primary killer of velvet anthuriums. Always use room-temperature water.
70–85% is essential. Below 60% causes stunted growth and curling leaves. A dedicated humidifier is strongly recommended for UK growers.
Low-nitrogen fertiliser (e.g. 5-10-10 or orchid fertiliser) at quarter strength every 3–4 weeks. High nitrogen produces lush but weak growth susceptible to pests.
Reluctantly — only when completely root-bound (every 2–3 years). These plants dislike disturbance and may sulk after repotting.
Common Problems
Yellowing leaves
Overwatering or root rot
Remove from pot, trim affected roots, repot into fresh dry substrate and reduce watering
Curling or crispy leaf edges
Low humidity or cold draughts
Increase humidity above 70% and move away from cold windows
Thrips
Common on velvet-leaf anthuriums; hard to detect early
Inspect new growth and leaf undersides regularly; treat with neem oil or systemic insecticide at first sign
A Rather Stiff Anomaly
Right, another brew. One does wonder sometimes, staring out at the perpetual drizzle, why we chase these equatorial marvels. And then one remembers *Anthurium corrugatum*. Old Sodiro, bless his boots, knew a thing or two when he described this Ecuadorian beauty back in '01. A rather compact epiphytic specimen, mind you, preferring the humid embrace of its cloud forest home. Its true charm lies in the leaves themselves. Not merely elongated cordate with a narrow sinus, but thick, leathery, and strongly corrugated – positively bullate, like a quilted tapestry, all prominent green venation. A proper self-supporting rosette, no fuss. One might say it’s the plant equivalent of a well-worn tweed jacket – sturdy, reliable, and utterly distinctive. Makes the drafty glasshouse almost bearable.
